V-World Thursday Workout, Burnt-Toasted-Sore
Well, I went ahead and burned another three hours at vertical world today. Could argue that it was a waste of time, since I wasn't able to hit anything very hard, but I did manage to get my muscles stretched out, relaxed, and into the groove of things. Bunch of new routes went up today at the Redmond gym. A new V5 set up by Teego that shows all of it's V5'ness within the first move consisting of a really tough foot and hand match right off the start hold.
There was also some new overhanging routes set up by Brian. Maybe not new, but new to me since I hadn't seen them the previous day. The route in question was a nice V1+ Power route. A power route is generally coined when your footwork and balance aren't going to play a huge role in sending the problem. This route definitely required a lot of power with 80%+ of your body weight being supported by your arms at all times.
I saw my first VH today. I'm assuming this is what you would call a V-Hard. Hard enough that Jarrod Vsui and Joel couldn't hit the route in order to rate it. Or maybe they did and would just rather leave up a problem without a definite rating so some of the better climbers would still try it out. Believe it or not, some of the V12 capable climbers in the gym shy away from the chance to send a V10/11 or better problem because of the insane amount of dedication required to finally send it. Most V10+'s take at least a few days of work in order for even the best climbers to send from what I've been told.
I'll have to keep everyone up-to-date on new routes at the Redmond gym. The boulder route setters have been setting almost a route a day on average so there is always cool stuff to climb. Just today 3 old routes came down in favor of putting up a couple of new routes, so the holds are starting to be recycled again and stagnant routes are being removed. For anyone really working a particular route this always spells inevitable doom, since you might lose your chance forever.